"Christmas in the Caribbean . . . Snowbirds fill the air..." Jimmy Buffet
Season has definitely started. I took a friend's teenage (Jewish) daughter to Christmas Spoken Here at the Botanical Gardens last week. It's a fabulous venue where local artisans, merchants, apiaries, etc. come out to sell their wares. As we meandered through the stalls (all manned by locals) and wove through the shoppers (all of whom were white), Beth (who couldn't look more Irish if she tried), leaned over and asked, "Is it wrong that I'm creeped out by all the white people?"
There are two types of white people who move to the island. Those that embrace the culture and the people, and those who want to maintain a white-bread-only, country-club life. I feel sorry for those who do not elect to submerge themselves in the culture (where you are welcomed with open arms). They are missing out on some of the most amazing people I've ever met.
It is not uncommon for me to be the only (or one of the only) white people at an event. I never feel uncomfortable. In fact, most of the other attendees worry about my being comfortable and make it a point to ensure I feel welcome. The human heart has an amazing capacity for empathy.
Not only are the snowbirds flocking, but the cruise ships are docking. As best I can tell, there is an international law that only white people can travel by cruise ship and they must leave all brain cells in their stateroom prior to disembarking. As a wise man once said, if it is tourist season, we should be allowed to shoot them.
No where else in the world will people stop and stand in the middle of the main thoroughfare through town and stare at a building. I swear, they freeze and stare - as though they might startle a wild animal. The buildings have been there since the 17th or 18th Century (depending on the building). They aren't going anywhere. I swear. You can finish crossing the street. They won't bolt.
For my first year on island, there were no cruise ships. Out of the blue, I found Christiansted overrun with scary, clueless, pale people. After battling my way to a friend's store, I burst in and shouted, "Where did all the freakin' white people come from?" The two lawyers at the counter, turned and shared a smile with me, ignoring my blonde hair, blue eyes, and scarily wan complexion. I remember them explicitly, because one of them was Attorney Moorhead (and he was wearing a suit - what a beautiful, beautiful, man!). My friend behind the counter who was baan a'raise (and white) cracked up. Off to my right, where the internet cafe sat, there was a collective gasp. I turned to see that area of the store packed with white people. One elderly lady gasped in horror and whispered loudly, "She said 'white people'!"
Just wait until I start talking Christmas traditions down here...
Monday, December 14, 2009
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